Tuesday, July 03, 2012

"Art" in Vladivostok: A definite Soviet sculpture style

Landing in Vladivostok, as I've described before, was both by accident (I'd planned to start my epic train trip in China) and nearly with an accident (my hairy landing with Air Vladivostok has stayed with me - although it wasn't actually at all dangerous!). Just the same, I'm very glad I went, if nothing else because my  brain is imprinted with the lasting memory of sculpture after sculpture after sculpture ... none of which were particularly beautiful, but which certainly pointed to the very Soviet and very military immediate past of Vladivostok.

Vladivostok was totally off-limits to foreigners during the Soviet era (and I seem to remember my host there telling me that it wasn't that easy for Russians to visit either?). It must be a really odd feeling for all those locals who grew up during that time in a closed city and then since the 1990s have gradually seen more and more foreigners come in - most often, arriving on the Trans-Siberian train or like me, flying in ready to hop on it and travel towards Moscow.


When I was in Vladivostok, the hammer and sickle in various forms was everywhere. Really everywhere. I found it a little unnerving at first; then I found it kind of fun to spot them.


It's nearly 10 years since I was in Vladivostok, which means it's two decades since the Soviet era ended rather than one, and I tend to suspect this may have made a difference. Perhaps more of these murals and sculptures have been rounded up into a retirement village for Soviet-era art, a bit like the various Soviet sculpture parks in many cities of Eastern Europe. Or then again, perhaps not? I found Vladivostok to be a very intriguing place, not one that I could fall in love with but one that I'd be interested to visit again just to see what has changed, and what hasn't.

8 comments:

  1. I love this socialist realist art... I visited Moscow just after the Soviet era and saw plenty of it there - in Cuba too, and Mexico (those amazing murals). There's something about the grandiosity of that time...

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    1. Yes, grandiose is a good word for it - like the decadently decorated subway stations in Moscow and St Petersburg which people travelled through to get to one of those endless queues for bread ... Anyway you've got me very keen on Cuba and Mexico now!

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  2. Even ten years later I'm not sure that Vladivostok is on my bucket list but I do love returning to countries to see the changes that have happened, be they good or bad. Hopefully one day, you'll get back there!

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    1. Ha ha I understand your thinking there Jenny, but having arrived there by accident I was certainly intrigued to see it. Yes, one day ...

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  3. Ah yes, the sculptures. I'm from Bulgaria, and we have places where these sculptures are everywhere, too. You get used to them and learn to ignore them after a while!

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    1. I can imagine - they would probably just blend into the background if you lived amongst them - they're not exactly colourful or anything.

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  4. That's part of their history, and although from other countries (mentalities) the USSR is something not much appreciated don't think they'll have removed everything. It's not the same as Germany with its nazi past... anyway, it's good that even getting there by accident you appreciate the posibility to see something you would probably don't be interested in, I like that in travellers, people who appreciate every place they visit as it is.

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    1. Thanks Anon- good point. And yes, I am rarely disappointed by any place I visit - there's always something of interest for me, just as it is.

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